Vine to Glass: Crafting World-Class Chardonnay

Family values and expert experience equal world-class Chardonnay

Kumeu River Wines, a name synonymous with world-class Chardonnay, is more than just a winery—it’s a testament to the Brajkovich family’s deep dedication to their craft and community. Located in the picturesque landscapes of New Zealand, Kumeu River Wines has built a reputation that extends far beyond its vineyard. With a legacy spanning nearly eight decades, the winery has established itself as a premier producer of fine wines, earning the respect of critics and enthusiasts alike. The Brajkovich family’s commitment to quality, innovation, and sustainability has solidified Kumeu River as a leader in the industry.

Kumeu River blends time-honored winemaking traditions with a progressive approach, ensuring each bottle reflects heritage and innovation. With careful vineyard management and hand-harvesting techniques, the winery maintains an uncompromising commitment to quality. While staying true to its roots, Kumeu River has adapted to an evolving global market, refining its craft to meet modern tastes without losing sight of its origins.

Kumeu River origins

The story of Kumeu River Wines began when Maté Brajkovich and his parents purchased a vineyard in Kumeu, just outside Auckland. “The property already had an established vineyard,” says Paul Brajkovich, Director of Marketing. “But to pay off the mortgage, my father and his family had to grow mixed crops like pumpkins and strawberries, and they even had cattle.” Maté also worked at a local winery, Soljans, where he developed a deep passion for winemaking. “He would bicycle to work at the start of the week, stay with the Soljans family, and immerse himself in the craft,” Brajkovich explains. “That’s where he realized he could do it himself.”

In 1948, Maté built the winery’s first cellar, which housed production, storage, and sales. “Those four walls that he built back then are still part of the winery today,” says Brajkovich. “He was a gregarious man who built a loyal customer base, and soon people from Auckland drove out to buy wine directly from him.”

Over the decades, the winery evolved. Initially known as Brajkovich Wines and later as San Marino Vineyards, it was Michael Brajkovich, Maté’s eldest son, who rebranded it as Kumeu River in the early 1980s to better reflect the winery’s identity and terroir. “Kumeu is the place, and the river runs behind the property,” Brajkovich explains. It made sense to tie our name to the land.

A family-run enterprise

Today, Kumeu River remains a family-run business. Michael, a trained oenologist and New Zealand’s first Master of Wine, oversees winemaking. Milan, originally an engineer, manages viticulture and vineyard operations. Paul, with a background in commerce, leads marketing and sales, while their sister, Marijana, who joined 18 years ago after a career in the hotel industry, handles finance and marketing.

“It’s rare to have all four siblings return to the business,” Brajkovich says. “We each found our way back, bringing different skill sets that have helped the winery evolve.”

The next generation is also beginning to step in. “My sister’s son, Scott, has completed vintages in Burgundy and Sancerre,” says Brajkovich. “He’s keen on production, and we expect to see more involvement from the next generation in the coming years.”

Chardonnay excellence and innovation

Kumeu River Wines has built its reputation on producing world-class Chardonnay, often drawing comparisons to the finest white Burgundies. “When Michael returned from France in the early ‘80s, we were making several varietals—Sauvignon Blanc, Merlot, Cabernet Franc—but the Chardonnay consistently stood out,” says Brajkovich. “It made sense to focus on what we did best.” With its elegance, minerality, and depth of flavor, the Chardonnay quickly gained recognition in international markets, particularly in the UK and US, where it rivaled top-tier Burgundian wines at a more accessible price point.

The flagship Kumeu River Estate Chardonnay, first released in 1985, remains the benchmark for the winery. Over the decades, the portfolio has expanded to include several single-vineyard Chardonnays, each showcasing distinct terroir-driven characteristics.

Maté’s Vineyard, introduced in 1994, holds special significance. “It’s on the original site my father bought in 1944,” Brajkovich explains. “Initially, we assumed it would contribute to our Kumeu River Chardonnay blend, but when we vinified the wine, we realized it had a unique identity. That’s when we decided to release it as a single-vineyard bottling in his honor.” The wine has since become the most sought-after in the Kumeu River lineup.

Expanding the portfolio

Following Maté’s Vineyard’s success, the winery introduced two additional single-vineyard Chardonnays in 2006—Hunting Hill and Coddington. Hunting Hill, situated just above Maté’s Vineyard, produces a more floral, mineral-driven Chardonnay with notes of lemon and lime blossom. In contrast, Coddington offers a more decadent, opulent style, with a weighty texture balanced by fine acidity. These additions further cemented Kumeu River’s position as a global leader in cool-climate Chardonnay.

Beyond refining its winemaking approach, the winery has embraced innovation. “We were one of the first in New Zealand to switch to screw caps in 2001,” Brajkovich notes. “It was controversial at the time, but we believed in it, and now it’s widely accepted as the best closure for preserving quality.”

Hawke’s Bay and beyond

In response to increasing urban development pressures near Kumeu, the winery expanded to a new vineyard site in Hawke’s Bay. “Buying more vineyards in this area became nearly impossible, so we looked elsewhere,” says Brajkovich. “In 2017, we acquired Rays Road, allowing us to explore Chardonnay further and introduce Pinot Noir.”

While Kumeu remains the heart of their operations, the winery’s expansion into Hawke’s Bay in 2017 brought new opportunities. “This site is on limestone, making it perfect for Chardonnay and Pinot Noir,” Brajkovich explains. “We’ve been gradually replacing the original Sauvignon Blanc plantings with Chardonnay, a process that will take another six years.”

Additionally, the winery has ventured into sparkling wine production. “We started making bottle-fermented sparkling wine in 2012—our Kumeu Cremant, Cremant Rosé, and Blanc de Blanc,” says Brajkovich. “These are small productions but gaining traction in markets like the UK and Spain.”

Global recognition

Kumeu River Wines now exports 70% of its production to over 23 countries, with strong UK and US markets. “One of our UK importers used to serve our Chardonnay blind at tastings,” Brajkovich recalls. “People would assume it was Premier Cru Burgundy from a top producer. They were shocked to learn it was from New Zealand.”

The winery has earned international recognition, with numerous awards highlighting its excellence. “Michael was recently awarded the Institute of Masters of Wine Winemakers’ Winemaker of the Year, which is a huge honor,” Brajkovich says. “Our wines consistently receive top ratings from leading critics, reinforcing our reputation on the global stage.”

Kumeu River’s export success began in 1988 at the London Wine Trade Fair, where the family secured key international partnerships. “That was our first foray into exports,” Brajkovich explains. “We had just appointed our UK importer, Boxford Wine Company, and at that same event, we met our US importers, Wilson Daniels Limited, who we’re still with today.”

Celebrating 80 years

As Kumeu River approaches its 80th anniversary, the focus remains on refining its craft while embracing new opportunities. “We don’t chase trends,” Brajkovich emphasizes. “We stay true to our philosophy—making wines of integrity that reflect our land.”

One of the most significant developments on the horizon is the continued transformation of the Rays Road vineyard. “We see an opportunity to establish new single-vineyard expressions,” says Brajkovich. “There are still pockets within the site that we believe have even more to offer regarding unique character and expression.” Over the next six years, the winery will complete its transition from Sauvignon Blanc to Chardonnay, unlocking the full potential of the limestone-rich terroir. Additionally, Pinot Noir, which has remained relatively small in Kumeu River’s portfolio, will become an increased focus, leveraging the site’s ideal growing conditions.

Kumeu River’s expansion into traditional-method sparkling wines is gaining traction. With the success of the Kumeu Cremant, Cremant Rosé, and Blanc de Blanc, international demand is rising, particularly in the UK and Spain. “We’re seeing real interest, which is exciting,” Brajkovich says. “It’s still a small part of what we do, but we see great potential.”

As the next generation steps in, bringing fresh perspectives and new expertise, Kumeu River remains committed to the principles that have defined it for nearly eight decades—quality, innovation, and respect for the land. “We’ve come a long way from that small vineyard in 1944,” says Brajkovich. “But at our core, we’re still a family working together, making the best wine possible.”

And that, above all else, is what makes Kumeu River Wines truly special.

At A Glance

Kumeu River Wines

What: A family-owned winery recognized for producing world-class Chardonnay

Where: Kumeu, New Zealand

Website: https://kumeuriver.co.nz/

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